Another evening at Cube in Hollywood equals another epic bottle of wine.  2006 Dettori Bianco is 100% Vermentino, fermented (old school style) in cement vats.  Totally un-fooled-around-with, completely natural.  Feral even.

There is always a discussion around Dettori’s wines and their inevitable bottle variation, which is something I happen to love.  Every bottle is different, each on with its own personality, its singular nuances.

 

This particular bottle of Dettori Bianco was full of interesting aromatics: black tea, cardamom and lime zest.  The palate was textured, chewy even, and full of naturally-occurring tannins from an extended skin contact maceration.  The color is also captivating- this opalescent goldenrod, not quite opaque, belying the unfiltered, uncontrolled, savage winemaking traditions of this mythic winery.

Fascinating, rapidly changing in the glass, and absolutely a wine that begs not to be decanted.  In fact, this wine totally reminded me of a recent article by Dobianchi.com’s Jeremy Parzen regarding the debate surrounding decantation.  In my opinion, the beauty of this Vermentino is that she reveals herself slowly- you’d be a fool to rush with premature oxygenation!

 

The wine paired exquisitely with Cube’s array of cheeses and cured meats- and especially well with a salty duck salame.  Next time I’d also love to taste this Vermentino with a simple plate of spaghetti alla bottarga …

About The Author

I love all things Italian: the beautiful country of Italia, the Italians themselves, the language, the food… and above all, I love Italian wine. The people I meet in my charmed life are fascinating, the wines are extraordinary. I needed a special place like this to write about them, and to remember them.

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