Petrichor: the Scent of Rain @Monteraponi

ImpressiveThe clouds parting after a quick summer shower at Monteraponi.

I learned a new sommelier-geeky-wine word this past week for an aroma we all know and love.  “Petrichor” the name for the scent of fresh rain.  The word was coined in 1964 by researchers I.J. Bear and R.G. Thomas.  It is a combination of the ancient Greek word petro (rock or stone) and  ichor (the fluid that is supposed to flow in the veins of the gods of Greek mythology.  Poetic.  Appropriate.

Chianti Classico

It could have been the time and place- the ancient stone buildings, the passing rain, the warmly lit rooms of Monteraponi- but I swear this bottle of Chianti Classico had a little bit of petrichor enchantment.  Clean, mineral, and whispering of something venerable and carefully well-preserved.  Magic.

 

Casa Emma in Chianti

Vigna al Parco

We stopped by Casa Emma for a tour of the winery, and as seems to be the custom everywhere we go- they immediately welcomed us, handed us a glass of wine, and started cooking.

3 Amici

This winery is in San Donato in Poggio, very close to Castellina.  The elevation is about 420 meters above the sea, sprawling out over a beautiful hillside that is crested with a natural preserve.  The sweeping exposure to sunlight, along with the oxygen-producing trees at the top of the incline, help make this vineyard a perfect little ecosystem for the grapes.Chianti Classico

 

Casa Emma cultivates mostly Sangiovese, but also has some precious indigenous varietals as well.  Their first Chianti Classico is made with 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cannaiolo and 5% Malvasia Nera.  The Cannaiolo is relatively standard in these blends, but the Malvasia Nera is what helps really set this wine apart from other Chianti Classico expressions.  There is a black fruit, plums and dried orange peel quality that the Malvasia Nera lends to the blend that I really like.  It’s juicy and  toothsome- dangerously drinkable, especially with a few slices of cured meat or cheese.

Meat

 

The Best Fried Chicken in the World, and What to Drink with it.

Pollo Fritto

You’re in Tuscany, surrounded by the most beautiful scenery, your senses assaulted by the sights and smells of the sunny hills and beautiful wines.  All of this perfection can make you hungry.  Go to Baffo and eat Fried Chicken.  I’m not kidding.  This may have been the single most important culinary discovery of my life.  Especially when paired with the right wines.

For example, we all know Lambrusco goes well with anything salty and fried, but it truly sang with this perfectly olive-oil drenched, crispy-juicy chicken.Pra di Bosso

Of course, when Luca D’Attoma, enologist to the stars and producer of his own amazing wines at the Duemani comes along, he manages to somehow top the absolute perfection of this pairing.

With 1990 Sauternes.  Cool, oily with sugar and just enough acidity to wake up your palate between crispy-juicy bites.  The mouth-coating effect was also helpful when we ordered the spicy version of this pollo fritto- loaded with dried chili flakes and piping hot.

Sudurat 1990

Thanks Luca, for introducing us to another of the world’s great food & wine pairings.  Fried Chicken and Sauternes.  Try it.  You’ll like it.

Happy people like fried chicken.

Enjoy Casebianche’s “La Matta” @SottoLA

La MattaYes, I sell wine for a living and I write about my products here on this site.  I am proud to represent the products in AI Selections portfolio.  In my opinion, it’s one of the most interesting collections of imported wine around- that’s why I took the job.

In our industry it is customary that a salesperson “supports” her own products in her accounts.  This means we drink our own wines- wines we have sold into these restaurants and wine bars.

The funny thing is, for the first time in my career I feel absolutely NO pressure to do this.  AI Selections was founded by David Weitzenhoffer, former Wine Director for Felidia in NYC.  If anyone appreciates the fascinating diversity of the wine world, and recognizes the sheer importance of knowing as many wines as possible, it’s David.  Consequently, I do not feel I HAVE to order my own wines in our accounts.

But most of the time I still I do.  Because I love them. Continue reading

Lusenti Malvasia di Candia @TerroniLA

Lusenti @TerroniI love having the opportunity to taste new and exciting wines being brought into the US by pioneering importers like Vinity.  I happened upon LA salesguy extraordinaire Ned Teitelbaum at Terroni the other day and he let me taste this gorgeous little gem from a winery I had never heard of before: Azienda Agricola Lusenti, in the Colli Piacentini.

The wine is made from 100% Malvasia di Canida, a variety local to this part of Emilia-Romagna.  The name Bianca Regina or “White Queen” is appropriate  given the gorgeous and opulent aromatics of this wine- all tea leaves and jasmine, honeysuckle and lovely caramelized apricots.  On the plate it is unabashedly saline, and vertical with acidity and a balanced and softly tannic structure, thanks to a 4-day maceration on the skins before pressing.

Winery owner Ludovia Lusenti writes on her website that she wishes the wines to “relay the emotion of a journey… and of life in the vineyards”.  After tasting the Bianca Regina, I am thirsty to know more.

Authentic Piadina in Venice Beach @MostoEnoteca

Piadina @MostoEnotecaI was so excited to meet Massimo Fubelli and Chef Fabrizio Giorgi of Mosto Enoteca the other day at their lovely restaurant in Venice, California.  I spent over a year living in Bologna, where one of my staple lunch or dinner items was the local iteration of Romagna’s sandwich: the piadina.  Chef Fabrizio, being a local from Rimini, understands the art of this perfect little hand-held meal.

View @MostoThe warm, griddled flatbread was spread with a fresh, runny mozzarella- so fresh I thought it might be stracchino- then dotted with spicy arugula and draped with prosciutto.  Done.  Basta.  The perfect example of fast, healthy, regional Italian cuisine.  The key to simple dishes like the piadina is perfect balance between restraint and super high quality.  Not too much of each ingredient allows every flavor and texture to shine through against that soft, warm slightly-chewy give of the piadina element itself.

Now these Mosto Enoteca just needs a real authentic glass of regional wine to go with that perfect sandwich.

Maybe the Lambrusco boys of Opera02 can help?!

Mattia in Cantina

Mattia Montanari with the perfect pairing to a piadina- a glass of cold Lambrusco!

Natural Wine Comes to Culver City @BarAndGarden

Window BarAndGardenThe other day I visited the ladies of Culver City’s newly-minted Bar and Garden.  Recently  Lauren Johnson and Marissa Mandel rehabilitated an antique liquor store, and have turned it into a beautiful, airy, sunlight-filled space.  Their selection of natural wines and small-batch spirits is pretty much unparalleled, and the whole operation is overseen by a quiet and affectionate pooch named Banjo.  Now that’s what I call a great neighborhood shop!

Banjo @barandgarden

Banjo, lovable mascot of @BarAndGarden.  Clearly the camera loves him.

Continue reading

Cesanese. Say it with me: “che-zuh-nay-zay”

Damiano Ciolli

Damiano Ciolli, Birk O’Halloran and Leticia at Vinitaly 2013.

There are very few wines indigenous to the region of Lazio, and even fewer from the area close to Roma.  That’s what makes the Cesanese grape so very special.  It’s unique, it’s esoteric, and it makes a seriously delicious wine in hands of capable and passionate winemaker like Damiano Ciolli.Silene

His straight-forward Cesanese “Silene” is matured in large, neutral barrels.  The wood does much less to flavor the wine than it does to simply help the exchange of oxygen during maturation.  It’s a decidedly savory wine with notes of wild sage, wet earth and blackberry.  Deep and rich- this wine is a shining example of the potential of Lazio’s wine making terroir.

I will be visiting this estate in person soon- can’t wait to see the vineyards in person and to revisit the wines closer to their birthplace.  Damiano Ciolli himself is a sweet, jovial, handsome young winemaker, with a tendency to speak in rapid-fire, heavily-accented Italian.  I am already equally as excited to see him again as I am terrified of attempting to translate for him.  A presto, Damiano.  Bravo!

Trust me. It’s me and Frank Cornelissen @SottoLA!

Have you ever given somebody a camera and fanatically asked them to take a picture of you and somebody really, truly important to you?

Like, say you meet Ozzy Osbourne or Tony Iommi in an airport- you’d want to record that, right?  Tony Iommi and Emil Karapetian

Black Sabbath’s Toni Iommi and Emil Karapetian

Or maybe you bump into Mike Tyson over a cup of coffee?  You definitely need an image of that moment…Mike Tyson and Kristin Bonfiglio

Mike Tyson and Kristin Bonfiglio

Continue reading

Sauvignon Stalemate

SauvignonI love this photo because it encapsulates what is so great about the wine industry.  When wine people get together, horizontal tastings like this are inevitable.    At a post-Vinitaly dinner we tasted these three wines together with the good people of Cantina Bolzano: a sure sign you’re dealing with a first-class winery when they are happy to match their wines up against some of the best in the world! Continue reading